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| Name: Kim From: Watford |
Thank you. Found the Coupe stuff really useful. Haynes dont do a manual and the information you have provided gives you the confidence to carry out repairs without the guesswork.
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| Name: Taff From: Fareham |
I have just bought a y reg coupe gen 2 do the specs and diagrams help with my model. If not wow what a great website congrats will keep on favs even for the boiler info.   Admin reply: Hi Taff. The service manual also covers the Gen 2 as the only changes from the Gen 1 were cosmetic (and separate headlamps). ..Mathew
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| Name: Clive Just |
Finally completed - it took ages but next time would be very quick. Hope these hints help: On my model (with 4 machine screws holding the black plastic on the left) there is no need to take the filling loop off the diverter. Only need to remove the by-pass (small dia) pipe from the left (black plastic) end - suggest leaving right end in place. I removed the bolt and the machine screw which hold the silver mounting bracket to the chassis but left the diverter attached - though note where it goes before detaching. Once everything has been removed from the diverter valve it just pulls off with lots of wiggling and a bit of levering - mine was tight. Most important for me was to remove the o-ring from the plastic housing and fitting onto the end of the small bore by-pass pipe before reassembly. I found it easier to put the by-pass pipe into the plastic housing before remounting the diverter assembly - didn't seem to line up quite right otherwise. The black plastic fitting and diverter needed gentle bashing with wood & hammer to go over the o-rings (in the chassis). If the retaining clips don't go in easily try bending the arms down a little - I wasted ages wiggling and pushing thinking the by-pass pipe was not in far enough whereas the clip was just going above the hole! It was not clear to me where the smaller diameter fibre washers in the repair kit went. The larger ones form the seal between the diverter and the heat exchanger but the other joints all seem to be o-rings. I believe the large flat diverter/heat exchanger connection only has an o-ring. I applied PTFE tape to the threads and silicone grease liberally to all o-ring joints and miraculously not one leak! It failed to work properly afterwards though!! The flames would light but igniter kept sparking for 10 secs before going to lock out. Somehow water leaked into the control panel and once it was dried out it all worked fine again. Admin reply: Nice one Clive - good job! Thanks for the tips; I'm sure they'll be useful for others tackling this one! ..Mathew
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| Name: Clive |
Boiler!! Great pictures. Still struggling to get the small bypass pipe connections done - no room to access or get any leverage.Any ideas\/
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| Name: Robbo From: Kent, UK |
What a Star !... Hyundai Coupe manual online...Perfect! Even the illustrious "Haynes" company hasn't produced on yet. Just bought a Coupe (Tiburon) and now can tackle the little foibles it might produce. Cheers !
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| Name: vinny |
Hi, I wonder if you can help. I'm just trying to replace the diverter valve on my 24dci, but have got stuck at the first hurdle. When I open the drain taps to empty the boiler nothing comes out! The system is still pressurised to 1 bar. I have even had the drain tap in my hand, but still no water. Any ideas on what I have missed
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| Name: Nadia From: indonesia |
Hi Great excellent device! a question though, what happens when the powers are out, in certain countries that happens very frequently. Admin reply: Hi Nadia, if the power goes the feeder doesn't function. Here in the UK such events are fortunately very rare - indeed I've not had a power failure in 10 or so years. Of course, in areas where this might be an issue then a UPS would be required to continue operation - alternatively a battery backup which kicks in to complete empty the feeder could also be employed. All that said, I'd prefer to just call the neighbour for assistance - this feeder is purely for convenience and should not be placed in a life-or-death role! ..Mathew
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| Name: Tony From: Liverpool |
Just a quick message to thank you for the article regarding a diverter valve replacement on a Worcester 24CDi Boiler. Very helpful indeed, especially when I forgotten where to put the fibre washers ! Thanks again, Tony.
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| Name: StarGehzer From: Toronto Ontario Canada Website: http://www.miataphiles.ca |
RE: the Cat Feeder... WOW! I too have looked for a reasonably priced feeder that would work. The best feeder I found was in the $500.00 US range. Crazy price, but probably worth it if you could afford it. Your use of a cereal feeder was a good idea, I've been playing with an old 'Beaver' Gum dispenser, but it's big, noisy, and needs a LOT of torque. You didn't mention what the smallest serving would be with your system? I'd be feeding 1 cat maybe 4 to 6 times a day. That would be 1/2 a cup of feed divided by 4 or 6, a pretty small serving. Perhaps gluing a block onto the rotating device would limit how much feed comes out. Thank you for the links to your sources of materials and some of the scripts. While I wouldn't need the split system for the feeder I'd love to see that one piece of aluminum opened up & how you folded it to create the chutes. How do you design something like that? Beyond me... An amazing product! I'll be tinkering using some of your ideas, but I'm afraid I'm not as computer literate as you so I'll be looking to simplify the system.. Congrats on your hard work.
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| Name: Lynn From: Alabama - USA |
You are brilliant, Mathew! I love the cat feeder.
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